A Journey Through Rice Terraces and Rivers

I had seen photos of the Longji Rice Terraces online and they stayed in my mind for months. Those sweeping green layers looked like something from a dream, so when I found a tour that covered Guilin and the terraces, I booked it without much hesitation. My cousin Emma decided to come along, which made it even better.

We arrived in Guilin and had some free time in the evening, so we walked over to Dongxi Lane. It's this old alley with traditional architecture, turned into a little shopping and dining street. We found a small shop selling handmade fans and Emma bought one with a painting of bamboo on it. She carried it around for the rest of the trip and kept using it even when it wasn't hot, just because she liked the way it looked. We also got some rice noodle soup from a tiny place tucked away in the corner. It was so good that we ended up going back there the next morning before leaving for Longsheng.

Our guide for the Guilin portion was a woman named Liu Wei, probably in her early thirties, with a calm and gentle manner. She grew up in a village near the terraces and knew the area like the back of her hand. She told us stories about the different ethnic groups and their farming traditions, and she had this way of explaining things that made everything feel personal. She also had a great sense of humor, which made the long drives much more enjoyable.

The drive to Longsheng took a couple of hours, and the scenery changed the closer we got. The flat farmlands gradually turned into hills, and then into mountains covered in green. We arrived at the Jinkeng Dazhai Yao village first. The rice terraces climbed up the mountain slopes in sweeping curves, layer after layer, like a giant green staircase that someone built all the way to the sky. We walked along the narrow paths between the terraces, and the water in the paddies reflected the clouds above. Emma kept stopping to take photos from different angles, trying to capture how the light changed on the water. Liu Wei pointed out the best spots for photos and even took a few of us together. We met an old Yao woman in traditional clothing sitting by the path, and she showed us how to walk carefully on the slippery edges without falling in. Emma tried and almost fell anyway, but the woman just laughed and patted her arm.

In the afternoon we went to Ping'an Village, which is a Zhuang settlement on the other side of the mountain range. The view from the viewing platform was incredible. The terraces curved around the hills like ribbons of green, with tiny wooden houses scattered in between. We spent a long time just standing there, watching the farmers working in the fields. It felt so far from the city life we were used to. Liu Wei told us about the different farming seasons and how the terraces change color throughout the year. We stayed overnight in a small guesthouse in the village, and I remember lying in bed and hearing nothing but the sound of wind and insects outside the window.

The next morning we drove back to Guilin and visited Reed Flute Cave. I love caves, so I was really looking forward to this. The stalactites and stalagmites inside looked like giant coral, or frozen waterfalls, or even upside down trees. Liu Wei pointed out formations that supposedly looked like animals and legendary figures, and Emma kept making up her own names for them. She called one "the droopy elephant" and another "the melting candle." The cave was big and cool, a nice escape from the afternoon heat.

The fourth day was the Li River cruise, and I think that was Emma's favorite part. We boarded the boat in the morning and found seats on the deck so we could see everything. The karst mountains rose up from the riverbanks like green cones and jagged towers, each one a slightly different shape, and their reflections in the water made them look even more unreal. We passed by water buffalo standing in the shallows, and old men fishing from bamboo rafts. Emma spotted a little girl waving from a small village along the shore, and she waved back so enthusiastically that the girl laughed. We ate lunch on the boat, simple but tasty, and just watched the scenery slide by for hours. Liu Wei sat with us and pointed out the famous peaks, telling us the legends behind their names. When we arrived in Yangshuo, we walked along West Street, which was lively and full of shops and cafes. The rural home visit later in the afternoon was also interesting. We went to a local family's house and they showed us how they make rice wine. Emma tried a sip and immediately made a face. I tried it and made the same face.

Our last stop was Fuli Ancient Town. This small old town is known for its handmade fans, and we got to try painting our own at a local workshop. An elderly craftsman showed us how to hold the brush and paint bamboo leaves on the paper. My fan turned out okay, a bit messy but recognizably a plant. Emma's fan somehow ended up looking like a green blob, but she insisted it was abstract art. She framed it when we got home, which I thought was sweet. Liu Wei helped us talk to the craftsman and translated his tips, which made the experience much smoother. The town itself was quiet and peaceful, with old stone bridges and houses that looked like they hadn't changed in a hundred years.

We headed to the airport after that, carrying our painted fans and lots of photos. Emma said she wanted to come back during autumn to see the terraces turn golden. I told her I'd be in. And I secretly hoped Liu Wei would be free to guide us again.